In stock (can be backordered)
Slide over rocks and through the mud without getting stuck, with 1/4 inch thick skid plates extending the H3 Hummer Under Body Protection 4′ x 2′, completely protecting the transmission and transfer case from damage. The skid plates come painted black, and with to brackets for mounting. Huge, flat, and smooth, these skid plates truly shine in the deep mud or snow helping you to easily slide on down the trail, when the 35″ tire just can’t quite reach the ground.
Complete Parts List Includes
- Transmission Skid Plate (Quantity 1) ~45lb.
- Transfer Case Skid Plate (Quantity 1) ~40lb.
- Transmission & Transfer Case Tie together Bolt Plate (Quantity 1)
- Transfer Case Rearward Bolt Plate (Quantity 1)
- Grade 8 Hex Flange Bolt 3/8-16 by 1 inch (Quantity 3)
- Drill / Screw Gun
- Nickel Anti-Seize
- PB Blaster
- 1/2 Inch Drill Bit
- 2 Feet of 0.035 or 0.030 Inch Solid Welding Wire
- A car jack, the one in the rear tailgate will work
- A punch that with a tip smaller than 3/8 inch
- Not all of the factory gas tank skid plates bolts need to be removed.
- The rearward skid plate, or “Transfer Case Skid Plate” goes between the gas tank and the gas tank skid plate.
- Before removing any bolt, apply plenty of PB Blaster before removing. Especially, the factory gas tank skid plate bolts. I didn’t, and I sheered the head off one of those bolts making this a much bigger project than it needed to be.
- Apply Anti-Size to each and every bolt before starting to thread it in. I didn’t do this and had to angle grind the head of a couple bolts off which destroy a skid plate set in the process.
- A day or two prior to installation, spraying down the factory skid plate bolts with PB Blaster. Specifically, the gas tank skid plate bolts. Do what it takes to get PB Blaster on those threads.
- Start by dropping the factory differential skid plate and transfer case skid plate. They’re the color black and made of steel.
- Very carefully and slowly back out only the front half gas tank skid plate bolts. I recommend only backing them out 1-3 complete turns at a time. Apply some PB Blaster. Ratchet those bolts back in all the way. Repeat this process, slow going further each and every time.
- Now we need to the bolt up the “Transmission Skid Plate” and “Transfer Case Skid Plate” using the factory bolt that on the H3 Hummer so that we can find three holes to drill out. I recommend using a car jack to help support one skid plate at a time in the air while starting threading the factory bolts. It helps to not ratchet the factory bolt all the way down until all 5 of the factory bolts are threaded in at least 4 complete turns.
- Once the “Transmission Skid Plate” and “Transfer Case Skid Plate” are aligned correctly and bolted tightly to the frame using the factory bolts you’ll have two bolt holes that need to be drilled out with the “1/2 Inch Drill Bit” on the driver side transmission cross member. Send me an email with pictures if you not sure. These two bolts holes tie the “Transmission Skid Plate” and “Transfer Case Skid Plate” together. There is also a third bolt hole that needs to be drilled out in the rear on the passenger side.
- The “Transfer Case Skid Plate” needs to be bent slightly up using a car jack so that it is sitting tight against the frame before drilling.
- With the “1/2 Inch Drill Bit” and a “Screw / Drill Gun” drill those holes out using the skid plates as guides so that the perfect hole is drilled out.
- Once the holes are drilled out, carefully remove the “Transmission Skid Plate”. I recommend using the car jack so the “Transmission Skid Plate” doesn’t come slamming down.
- Fish the “Transmission & Transfer Case Tie together Bolt Plate” inside the transmission frame so that it lines up with those fresh two bolt holes that are right next to each other.
- Thread only 4-5 complete turns of a “3/8 Inch Hex Flange Bolt” through the bolt hole on the driver side “Transfer Case Skid Plate” and also the factory differential skid plate. This is so the “3/8 Inch Hex Flange Bolt” can be used to swing the “Transmission & Transfer Case Tie together Bolt Plate” back n’ forth to line it up.
- It’s time to put the “Transfer Case Skid Plate” and also the factory differential skid plate back on for final installation. The “Transfer Case Skid Plate” is sandwiched between the differential frame rail and the factory differential skid plate.
- Loosely bolt the “Transmission Skid Plate” and the factory differential skid plate back up, until you get the 5 factory bolt in and also a second “3/8 Inch Hex Flange Bolt”. Leave the bolts just loose enough to be able to slightly adjusted skid plates side to side. Otherwise, it can become difficult finish threading all the other bolts that hold up the skid plates.
- Feed the “Solid Welding Wire” through the tiny hole in the “Transfer Case Rearward Bolt Plate” and twist it on to its self so you have a leash. This is how to move the “Transfer Case Rearward Bolt Plate” into position and also not lose the “Transfer Case Rearward Bolt Plate” in the frame rail.
- This is the hard part, using the “Solid Welding Wire” carefully get the “Transfer Case Rearward Bolt Plate” aligned over the final hole that was drilled out. A small punch with help with final alignment. Get that “3/8 Inch Hex Flange Bolt” threaded in and your on the home stretch. Tuck that excess “Solid Welding Wire” up into the frame so that you can pull the “Transfer Case Rearward Bolt Plate” out if needed
- Finally, tighten all the bolts down approximately 30-40 ft./lb of torque. Then go through and double check every bolt once again for the proper amount of torque.
I’m definitely not a great writer. If you’re having trouble understanding the installation steps, send an email so that I can fix my mistakes.